Monday, 12 September 2011

Backlash on a Hero




I feel sorry for poor little old Chardonnay. Now days it seems is like the little old battler that just can't seem to catch a break. Very few of today's youth would know the true story of Chardonnay. It is a harrowing tale of the rise of an international superstar who found fame and fortune from Hollywood to London, but then lost everything and became a laughing stock that filled the worst dressed pages of trashy magazines. I truly believe that it is not all over for Chardonnay and hope you will have the compassion in your heart to hear his story.

Once upon a time in a little town called Burgundy in France there was a young boy with white blonde hair named Chardonnay. During the winter he spent his days hanging out skiing in the cool climate with his family. During the spring and summer time the landscape around turned into lush green.

He spent much of his time hanging around the grape vines which situated themselves amongst the peach and apricot trees. The likeness to his trim and elegant mother was remarkable. He was a very polite boy with a crisp wit that always left his parents guests wanting more.

His father was a delightful chap of undeniable pedigree. He always told young chardonnay that there were two types of men that came from Burgundy, 'the zesty and crisp free spirit' and 'the rich and heavy set, strong as oak type'. Little chardonnay didn't really care for the story though for he dreamed of making it as a celebrity in Hollywood. It wasn't until years later that he would understand the value of tradition.

In the early 80's Chardonnay was a young man and set of to America to achieve his dreams. His long flowing locks had darkened to a glimmering straw blonde were the envy of the Californian bottle blondes. His smooth French accent made women and men alike swoon. Throughout the 80’s his celebrity rose quickly and he was a regular star at all the coolest parties, newest restaurants and hippest bars. Everything he had wanted was achieved in such a short time, it was a dream come true.

The invitations kept flooding in and poor little Chardonnay couldn't keep up with the demand. In an attempt to keep his adoring public happy he made a fatal mistake. Chardie knew that he couldn't keep up the appearances, but that most of the time his fans didn't really know him anyway. He thought that maybe if he could simply replicate himself he would be able to maintain and continually build his fame. He decided to recruit a bunch of slick young men. They grew their hair and dressed in the same clothes and before long they looked just like him. Every invitation he received, he would send one of his well-dressed clones.

Initially people didn't notice. They would say hello at the parties and greet the celebrity, wave and show their appreciation. However there began to be some instances where poorly brought up imposters were rude to guests, scream acidic threats or were just plain unpleasant. Chardonnay's reputation fell away in tatters and he got fat and lazy. There was a huge backlash and the once rising star was diminished in the same lightning flash as Tom Cruise when he famously jumped on Oprah's couch.

No one in Hollywood wanted him any longer. His fat, lazy and rude impostors had destroyed his career. Desolate and desperate he returned to France to the bedside of his father in old age. The dying old man whispered to his only boy 'Remember who you are son, don't let anyone take your tradition away from you' and with that he took his last breath.

For the first time Chardonnay realised what he had done. He had shot to fame so quickly and was not able to cater to the demand of his rising celebrity. In an attempt to please everybody he tried to be all things to all people and somewhere along the way lost himself. He made a commitment to himself that day that he would restore the great name of his father and Chardonnay. 'Finally' he thought to himself, 'this is my chance, this new generation... they will know the greatness of Chardonnay!'

He asked me personally to tell this story for him in the hope that you might take pity. Take in a story of fame and fortune to utter failure. Please learn from his mistakes and be willing to forgive. Have faith, he is going to prove himself to us, just you wait and see. 

My final request before finishing this blog is a simple one. Next time you look at a wine list give old Chardonnay a glance. One little nod of appreciation could start a revolution.

Along the grapevine – I heard a rumor that Lisa McGuigan is bringing out a new label. There might even be a sexy reinvigorated Chardie on the cards…

Tuesday, 6 September 2011

Ode to the Plentiful Bottle-o

The vast absence of anything plausibly viewable on television this evening has forced me to make a quick mid-week interlude post. The essence of this post is purely to praise the efforts of the plentiful bottle-o, and specifically the shining beacon that saved my weary self last weekend when shopping last minute for a meaningful fathers day gift.


Wine is to Sydney what stars are to Hollywood. At every nook and cranny you can find yourself a rising starlet, a look-a-like in fancy makeup or just someone who looks like if they were given the right chance in life, that they surely would have the opportunity to make it big. REALLY BIG like that old favourite the Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc. But really, wasn't he just a one trick pony who got lucky? Shiny and slick, portraying the exact same character until his time ran out? But a true celebrity sighting; they are few and far between, only likely on Rodeo Drive and a few fancy underground celebrity haunts.


Everywhere you go in Sydney you can find someone willing to fill your glass and have a merry little time with you. But that does not make a star. A star is created through the innate pedigree of the grape, the perfection of the childhood and the care taken to nurture the talent. This natural ability must then be cultivated by the most precise and meticulous hands that manage the development of the talent to its maturity. Once this divine specimen has been created and moulded he needs a sharp eye to recognise his brilliance and have the capability to put him on display to his adorning public.


The craftsmanship of wine is not only in its production, bottling and distribution, but it is also dependent on fine men and women who slave away, seeing, swirling, sniffing and sipping all that they can to deliver us only the best (and most sale-able) wines. This post goes out to all those in the industry who put everything on the line to stock their bottle shops with the very best wines.


This blog also goes out to my new best friend Dan Murphy. I must admit initially I thought he was just one of those guys, you know, friends with everyone, too cool for school, who just knew where the next party was and just wanted to go get loose with whatever wine he could get his hands on. WELL... boy oh boy was I wrong, and I am more than happy to admit it.


Last Saturday afternoon, I managed to combine a family necessity with my own personal interests. Many would be thinking that it is a little silly to write this on a public blog, however my family are all too well informed of how my brain works, they just choose to ignore. Thus, I continue... knowing that we had to buy my father a 'Father's Day present' and that my mother was otherwise engaged in the afternoon I suggested that it would be a great idea to buy all the different types of wine from all around the world as specified in the 'Everyday Guide to Wine' Seminar series that Louis had bought for me, and that we could study it together. Mama Guigs said ok.


At 4pm Saturday afternoon I made my way to the dungeon that is Dan Murphy's at Hurstville. Not knowing what to expect I walked in trying to avoid any preconceived ideas. To my delight, almost instantaneously I was transported to my own 'stately pleasure-dome decree'. As I pushed a shallow trolley through well greased turnstiles my eyes light up like glittering signs in Times Square. I was in heaven. Could I be dreaming, or was this heavenly place on earth?


I pushed my trolley through the snake like aisles 'meandering with mazy motion'. The shear size and volume of wine on offer was intoxicating, I was drunk with just the thought. Several times on my quest to acquire wines and vintages from across the globe I was simply at a loss, until the carefully marked regions almost sung to me, France and Italy and Chile oh my! 


Let's just say I left with all that I could carry, which I must admit is not the first time I have said that, and I doubt it will be the last. Louis was a happy father on father's day, and Denise was glad that we had succeeded in getting him a present. Guigs was glad that she had more supply to practice on. The readers were glad they were entertained by this mid-week interlude. The end.


References in this blog alluded to Coleridge's Kubla Khan. I never thought I would say, but Dan Murphy's might just be a little piece of heaven to a wine enthusiast. 

Saturday, 3 September 2011

Oui Merci Wine Club - The First Meeting


Last night was a momentous occasion. It was the evening where the first official Oui Merci Wine Club Meeting took place. This was a very serious educational evening where we sat around discussing the very intricacies that make Cabernet Sauvignon the most planted grape varietal in the world and the vast differences that the 'terroir' (French for land) make to the subtle flavours exhibited... just joking! The evening went somewhat differently from that. With each person bringing one bottle of wine I am sure you already have an idea, but I am going to tell you anyway because it was just too much fun!

Big red, Chloe, Anna, Nasonov
The club is actually made up of a few friends who have a similar obsession with wine: Stephanie Nasonov (Nasonov), Lyndall Jenkins (Big red), Chloe Neil, Anna Vendone, Myself (Guigs), Laura Travis (Lorn dogs), Philippa Healy, Emma Cunningham (Bulli) and our token male Ben Harrison. Last night however a few of the members were unable to make it. While I feigned disappointment at their inability to attend, I was secretly relieved as I only had a couch and 4 chairs. It was much easier to make do with my insufficient decor with only 6 guests present.

My spread for the soiree
As always I was ready with everything prepared 15 minutes before my guests arrived. Laid out before me were colourful canapés and preset seats for our wine tasting. Each had a notebook and pen, six tasting glasses a glass of water and a communal spittoon.

Only minutes after 6:00pm Chloe and Lyndall arrived with their contributions of beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon to the soiree.
Big red and the
elder Wynn's boy

The wines that had accumulated included two different vintages of the Wynns Coonawarra Cab Sauv 2008 and 2010, which can be considered as siblings. They were born of the same parents and grew up in the same household, but the two-year age gap marked two quite different personalities. Then there was my Chilean from the Central Valley near Santiago. With a 2005 vintage he was a little older and experienced than the Wynn’s brothers but I didn't want them nervous at their first wine club party so I kept it to myself. 

My older Chilean spunk
Not long after, Nasonov appeared with not one but two South Americans in toe; an Argentinean from the warm climate of Mendoza and another Chilean. Then it was Anna, being an English bird she is quite satisfied with a good old Aussie bloke and brought along a South Australian chap named Clover Drive. With a cute little picture of someone playing cricket on the label he was as Aussie as they come. Finally it was Ben to arrive with another Aussie, this time from the Margaret River in WA. The little posse of new friends made a fine group and sat down at the serious tasting table to commence the evening.

I gave a little background on the grape variety that was intended to assist us in detecting the aromas and flavours in the wine. I am not quite sure that this information helped us any, however the most important notes from this session were:
  • Cab sauv is the most widely planted grape throughout the world 
  • The skin of the grape is very tough and therefore resistant to bad weather. 
  • The thick skin gives the wine a deep red colour
  • To drink now - cab sauv grown in warmer climates
  • To drink later - cab sauv grown in cooler climates
  • Best regions for Cab Sauv in Australia - Coonawarra, Margaret River, Hunter Valley and the Barossa
  • Best regions for Cab sauv internationally - Bordeaux, Napa Valley, Mendoza Argentina, Central Valley Chile

Chloe writes something
important in her notebook
Everyone then had their turn to present their wine. We examined the colour; aromas and taste of each wine and then intellectually discussed the qualities that we imagined we could taste from what was mentioned on the back of the label. Nasonov and Ben were quite convinced that they were experts and going to be major successes in the blind tasting challenge.

Finally after we had tasted all the wines, and with out palates somewhat impaired we attempted to do a blind tasting. Using our immense skills we wanted to see whether we would be able to tell which wine was which. At this point the club got a little bit rowdy and there were some people certain of their impeccable palates and others who became dismayed and confused.
The aftermath
After the blind tasting we revealed the order that the wines had been poured and matched it to what we had guessed. The final reveal left us with the following scores Ben 0, Anna 1, Chloe 1, Guigs 3, Nasonov 3, Big Red DNF. Next round we battle with the golden oldie Chardonnay.

I do have one little question I wanted to ask you though... do you think that it matters that I saw the maroon wrapping at the top of one of the bottles when I poured during the blind tasting? I realise that there was only one bottle with maroon wrapping but I am sure I would have known it from the taste. 
Surely that is not cheating...




Saturday, 27 August 2011

Confession



I have a confession to make. I have not been faithful. Now, before you judge and sit on your high horse and tell me that I am wrong, I believe that you should hear me out.

Good old Cabernet Sauvignon and I have not been together long, however there are some things about him that are already grating on my nerves. Firstly, he always dictates what kind of food I must have. It is common knowledge that I am truly gourmand and like to dabble in a variety of delicious foods. However having been with cab sauv for the whole month my taste buds have had to submit to a solitary diet of heavy red meat. Not that I don't like red meat, quite the contrary in fact, it is just that I feel somewhat compelled to eat it when I am with him as he is so domineering and wants to overpower everything.

The second thing I am beginning to tire of is the dark red tannin pigment that covers my teeth and lips every time we see each other. It is like we can't have a simple, pleasant evening together without him having to leave his mark. I am not sure if he is using it as a sign that I shouldn't be drinking so much. Regardless of the reason, it leaves me highly irritated and not looking my best.

To be perfectly honest the cracks started to appear very early on. While a dedicated relationship seemed like a good idea at the time, it is just not the kind of woman I am. I need variety, something that is going to tickle my fancy depending what particular mood I so happen to be in on that day. Luckily for me Wolf Blass came to my rescue last Wednesday when good old cab sauv was on my wine rack at home and none the wiser.

Yellow Label Wines - Premium Economy
The lovely people at Wolf Blass hosted a tasting through the levels of their wine collection at the Shang-ri la commencing on the ground floor and progressing to the top of the town view at Blu Bar on level 36. You would never have known that I had made a commitment to one variety as I flitted and flirted my way through the red, yellow and gold label wines from the collection.

Irresistible golden straw hue
I particularly took a liking to a rich buttery chardonnay. Batting my eyelids I glanced at his sparkling straw hues and gently gave a small twist to the stem of the glass and watched him swirl effortlessly up its rim. The aromas wafted through the air until it was impossible to resist. I took a glorious sip and swallowed. This was not one that would hit the spittoon.

Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed dabbling with all of the wines at the tasting, the yellow label chardonnay and I made a connection. 

My lover for the evening.
Meet Gwurtztraminer
That is not the end of my confession though. I have been quite bad. Not only did I tramp myself around at the Wolf Blass tasting, but the following night I was invited to a dinner at the trendy new restaurant Food Society in Surry Hills and was introduced to another delectable specimen of German descent. I could barely pronounce his name properly but he had me at hello. They called him Box Stallion. He said he was from the Mornington Peninsula but his thick accent suggested true character from his heritage. 

From what I knew of Gewürztraminer I imagined that he would be more like Augustus Gloop from Willy Wonka and the chocolate factory, round and heavy, a little slow and full of sweetness. But this fine young specimen was far from that. True he was a pretty boy, clean and crisp with a handsome and inviting appearance, however he knew how to take control once tasted. The clean smooth talker cut straight through the sweetness I was expecting and finished like a pro. I could tell he had bowled over many unsuspecting women over before. 

Look, lets just be honest here. Despite all my flouncing about town, I still really do have feelings for Cabernet Sauvignon. He is strong and reassuring when I need a real man. I know may have complained a little about him earlier but he would be really upset if I told him what I had done. Maybe we can just keep this between us? I will try to be more faithful, but if I slip up from time to time can trust that this will go no further? Knowing my appetite I am going to need someone to confide in.

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Chardonnay 2010
Light and balanced with fresh flavours and a buttery smoothness. From the cool climate region of South Australia. A little piece of heaven on a wednesday. Retail $17.99

Box Stallion Gwurtztraminer 2008
From the Mornington Peninsula light and crisp with the expected fruit of Gwurtztraminer without the heavy finish. Easy to drink as it leaves the palate clear somewhat like the finish of a Sauvignon Blanc.
Enjoyed at Food Society 61 Riley St, Sydney.
On-premise price $48.00

Tuesday, 23 August 2011

Tasters Tool Kit (Everyday Guide to Wine)


Since starting this blog my passion for learning about wine is increasing at an exponential rate. I think about wine all the time, which will hopefully prove to be beneficial for content.

To assist in my journey my lovely father bought me a series of lectures called ‘The Everyday Guide to Wine” presented by Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan. Initially I thought that it would be boring and that I would be much better off simply practicing drinking wine. Like anything new you study, you don’t know, what you don’t know! You remain in an ignorant state of bliss until you learn a little more and become increasingly aware of your ignorance.

This penny dropped for me last Saturday when I was sitting in the living room of my parent’s house watching the first two lectures from the series with my father. Very early on in the presentation I became acutely aware that no amount of sipping (and by sipping I mean guzzling) wine at trendy wine bars was going to make me an expert, and that I was going to have to put in some effort.

Ms. Simonetti-Bryan is one of only a few hundred Masters of Wine in the World and breaks down the process of examining a wine into very small easy pieces.

There are 5 S’s of tasting wine: SEE, SWIRL, SNIFF, SIP, SAVOUR.

SEE
The colour of the wine gives you clues to the age and variety of the grape. Tilt the glass and hold it over a white surface and look at the colour in the middle of the glass.  If it looks yellow we say it is STRAW. From here we can determine whether it is a pale or deep version of that colour. Such as the term for a red colour is RUBY. As white wines age they gain colour. As red wines age they lose colour.

SWIRL
Swirl the wine to release the aromas however be mindful of swirling aged wines as they are more fragile and can be damaged by this.

SNIFF
Use the chest, chin, nose test. Hold the glass at each of these levels and think about what you can smell.If you can smell the wine when you hold it at your chest then it is an aromatic variety of wine. Simonetti-Bryan says that it is very important to just start with the things that you know. From this your senses will open up to new aromas and flavours.

SIP
We often qualify flavours as aromas but our tongue can only taste 5 things.
Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Salt, Umami
In wine we do not taste salt or umami, so we need only look for the following.

Sweetness
We taste sweetness at the front of the mouth, however sometimes what we perceive as sweetness is a fruity aroma. To test this you can hold your nose and see if you can taste the sweetness on your tongue. Your tongue won’t lie as to whether the sweetness is a taste or aroma.

Sourness
The sour flavour equates to high acidity in the wine perceived on the sides of the tongue. Acidic wines are known as Bright or Crisp, and low acid wines compared to the other elements are known as Blousy.

Bitterness
Bitterness comes in the form of the drying tactile sensation on the middle or the back of the tongue. It is more apparent in red wines and comes from the grape skin, seeds and oak.

Alcohol
The sensation of heat in the mouth signifies the level of alcohol in the wine. You will notice that a heavy cabernet sauvignon has high levels of alcohol content. For example The Coonawarra Rusty Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon has 14.5% Alcohol.

SAVOUR
Savouring the experience of the wine enables you to determine the finesse or elegance of the wine; how all the elements of are balanced; the length that the flavour lasts on your tongue and finally the finish, which denotes the impression that you are left with.

Sources:
The Everyday Guide to Wine http://www.everydaywineguide.com/
Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan http://www.jennifersimonetti.com/


As I am very new to this I would appreciate some feedback on how I am going with these blogs. Is it better if I discuss a wine each time I talk about what I am learning (you know I am drinking one)? Or maybe it is easier to focus on the tools at the moment. Although I initially started thinking that I would try a few wines of each variety and become an expert, now I believe that there are a few basics that I need to know first. I would love to hear your thoughts and appreciate the time you have taken to read to this point.

Thursday, 18 August 2011

Trying the Technique

After a rather low-key week I find myself at another Thursday evening; one of my favourite times of sanctuary. Although not quite finished with the working week the anticipation builds. Knowing that there is only one more day until I cruise into the weekend the corners of my mouth turn with contentment.

In a toasty warm little apartment, Tori Amos sing melodically in the background while I sip my cab sauv. Utter bliss!

Tonight I am trying the Embers 2009 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon in a attempt to master the fools guide to wine… how hard can it be?

As I learned last week, the first thing one must look for is what the colour looks like. I remember it is supposed to sparkle. Here goes… Embers colour is a deep blood red that occasionally flashes the colour of squashed berries on a white pavement. I try to look at the wine from different angles to test the verity of what I am seeing. Sideways I see the colour lighten to a transparent burgundy and glimmer around the glass in a perfect circle. From the top, the reflection of the light in the room reflects vibrantly from surface of the wine. Sparkling colour? Tick.

If I am not mistaken the next step is to look at the legs, which denote the viscosity (very technical term – I most certainly feel intelligent right now). I swirl the Embers cab sauv in the glass until it reaches halfway up. The base settles quickly when the motion ceases and leaves a clear film that slowly slides down in one collective movement until it reaches the bottom. I am not entirely sure what that means, but from previous experience of tasting poor quality wines where the clear film dissipates immediately once the swirling stops, I am concluding that this wine has a reasonable complexity. Legs - long thick and slow to descend.

Step 3 was to examine the nose. I have to force myself to not rush into this experience and try and figure out what the characteristics are of the nose. Focus McGuigan! Simply: does it smell pleasant?

I give my Embers a twirl and let the aromas rise in the glass. Luckily by this stage of the blog there is not much left in my glass and I do not fall prey to the unpleasant sensation of wine up the nose. The smell is delicious. Full, rich and funnily I can detect a scent of berries. The depth and alcohol content is also present as I feel the hairs inside my nose stand on end as the aromas float through. The nose on this wine definitely makes me want to taste it.

Finally the taste test! As the wine moves through my mouth I initially feel the alcohol as it slides down my throat. My tongue is livened with a delicious rich, hearty flavour and it carries itself to the sides of my cheeks and then to the back of my throat. 


Flametree Embers is a hit! I can hardly say that these four steps would make me an expert, however I feel a little more advanced on my journey then I did last week. Pouis' Fools Guide to Wine might just be the handy little tool-box I need to make it to the next level.


What I need to find out next is whether or not the Margaret River is traditionally a Cabernet Sauvignon producing region, what are the environmental characteristics that produce the best cab sauv and what are the best regions in Australia to produce it.


Looks like I will have to do some more research. Shame. 

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

Cabernet Sauvignon - The first step

This month's wine was the choice of my friend Stephanie. To me initially it seemed like an odd choice, to commence a long journey with a jump into the unknown depths of a rich and complex variety, however the more I think about it the choice encapsulates her spirit and I am intrigued to find out more. 


Today I met my first Cabernet Sauvignon since approaching this journey with fresh eyes. I find Cabernet Sauvignon to be a little intimidating, somewhat like a double barrel surname. Does the name represent grandeur and tradition? Or is it simply the product of two pretentious parents not willing to give up either of their names? Regardless of my initial feelings I was determined to begin my quest with gusto.


At around 7:00pm this evening I found myself in one of the more refined bottle shops in my local area thinking that this would give me a bit of a head start. Rather than meandering throughout the store meaninglessly, I turned a sharp left and headed directly to the section housing the cabernet sauvignons. Knowing what I was looking for initially was extremely beneficial in its time saving capability.


I glanced my eyes up and down the shelves quickly realising that the peasants were left way down low and those that were out of my league were luckily just out of my average height reach. I settled for a strong, clean and sharp looking suitor. His name was Angus and the attraction was instant.


Not long after I had made it through the front door did the romance begin. He was born in 2009 and was mature to a point that was evident in all aspects. First I examined his colour by filling the glass half full and holding it up to the light. He exhibited deep red purple hues yet was translucent like layers of cellophane in the light. Subtle aromas of cherry accompanied the berry like colour making for a charming yet playful first meeting. The richness of the flavours evenly coated my palate, first washing a warm toasty feeling over the tongue and then drifting back throughout my throat. It was a very nice first encounter. Cabernet Sauvignon I will be seeing you again!


I have promised myself that I won't be so easily seduced though. I am such a sucker for sexy crisp label though that I didn't even check to see what the region was before I left the store. Angus' little red cow picture and horns on the 'G' just looked so masculine, everything I had imagined a cabernet sauvignon should be. However when I checked to see the region (after the sneaky bugger was already in my glass and on my table) I realised that he was a 'bit-zer'... can you believe it? A little bit of this and a little bit of that, selected from the very best vineyards in the tiny region of South Eastern Australia.


I feel a little bit deceived not knowing the origin of the grapes that I tasted tonight. Yes they were tasty, but without knowing the full pedigree of what I am drinking how am I supposed to understand where the best grapes come from? Perhaps they intentionally keep us in a state of ignorance to make it easier to sell whatever they can, whenever they can.


Next time I will know better. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.


Tonight choice
Angus - The Bull ($18.00) 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. 
Produced in South Eastern Australia and made from grapes in wine regions across Victoria and South Australia.